Post by HelenAldredJones on Apr 14, 2004 1:21:11 GMT -5
Western Hognose Snake
Heterodon Nasicus Nasicus
written by Helen Aldred-Jones
General information
The Western Hognose snake is a colubrid snake from North America (Texas and the like). The taxonomic name can be translated as ‘Variable Teeth and nose’ as the hognose is rear fanged and has an upturned snout for burrowing. They are shy snakes, and often hiss and bluff strike (with a closed mouth, they very rarely bite) if you try to pick them up, but once picked up they become very docile. They have the ability to puff their heads into a cobra shape and if this doesn’t work they may convulse and roll over and loll their tongue in an attempt to play dead. It must be noted that this is quite rare behaviour in captivity and may only be exhibited in some hatchlings. The hognose also has what is know as a duvernoys gland which holds a mild venom, barely as bad as a bee sting if envenomated, although this is rare as it is very difficult for a hognose to bite you as their fangs are set far back in their heads and their heads are quite small. Because of the mildness of the venom, and the difficulty of actually biting you, this snake is considered non-venomous.
Western Hognose snakes are diurnal (active during the day) and their natural food source is toads, rodents, lizards and possibly other snakes, so it is wise not to house western hognose together.
Housing
As these snakes are possibly cannibalistic it is best to house them separately. I house mine in a 24”L X 12”D X 18”H. This should last for the rest of its life. Remember snakes are agoraphobic (scared of open spaces) so if you house a hatchling in a vivarium this size provide lots of hides.
This is how I have arranged my hognose vivarium: note the wax worm tub- I have added moist sphagnum moss and placed it in the warm end of the tank to provide her with a humid hide.
I have used an under tank heat pad which I keep at around 26C, I have also used a 40W bulb to heat up the air temperature (I also strongly recommend the use of a thermostat such as a Habistat one to keep the temperature stable to avoid over or under temperature) and regulate the night and day times for her. (12 hours on, 12 hours off in the summer, 9 hours on 15 hours off in the winter).
The substrate is aspen bedding at a depth of around 2-3 inches so she can hide and burrow in it. Hatchlings should be kept on kitchen roll to avoid impaction.
I have also provided a water bowl at all times so the hognose can have a soak or a drink- it would also be wise to provide a rock or something rough so the snake can rub against when it needs to shed. Note the hides placed in both the cool, warm and middle areas of the vivarium.
Feeding
Western hognose snakes can be fed solely on a diet of rodents. Baby hognose snakes can often eat newborn pinkie mice without trouble, but if not feeding, then split the head of the pinkie and the scent should be enough to encourage it to eat. Hatchlings should be fed every 4- 6 days, with adults fed once a week. The mouse should be no bigger than the diameter of the snake. Defrost the mouse the day before so it is completely thawed. I place the pinkie in a bowl of tepid warm water to aid the thawing. The snake shouldn’t really be handled for 2 days after feeding to prevent regurgitation.
Sexing
Sexing is fairly easy to do if you have a number of snakes to look at. The males have a much longer tail than the females. The tail of the males will be around 25% longer than the females. Probing can also be done, but it is not recommended unless you are experienced or trained to probe snakes.
Breeding
The female should be at least 16 inches long and of a healthy weight before breeding occurs, this is to prevent egg-binding. After the female has shed, she should be ready to breed. The female will secrete pheromones which will arouse the male. The male will start chasing the female and will rub his chin along her back, the copulation will last around 20 minutes, but it can last longer. Watch them carefully as hognose snakes have been known to eat other snakes. Introduce them every couple of days to ensure optimum fertility, this should be done 3 times. Increase the female’s food intake by offering her smaller food items a couple of times a week as she will need to create reserves to produce and lay the eggs. About 6 weeks after copulation, the female should shed- you should introduce a nest box for her to lay her eggs in. This box should have moist sphagnum moss and it should be a dark container. Continue to feed her smaller prey items after she lays for the next couple of feeds.
Incubation
The eggs should be housed in a sandwich box with a layer of damp vermiculite of perlite on the bottom and a dry layer on top. Keep the eggs at a temperature of around 82F and monitor the eggs so you can top up the water if they start to dimple. The eggs should hatch in 6-8 weeks. Once hatched, leave the hatchling in the incubator until it is free of its egg and the umbilical cord has atrophied.
Hatchlings
House each neonate separately- plastic shoe boxes should be ok, with lots of small holes drilled for ventilation (remember they have to be small enough to prevent the snake form escaping). The substrate should be kitchen towel to prevent impaction. Keep records of sheds and feeding to monitor health and the growth progress. Feed the hatchling after a week or so on a defrosted newborn pinkie mouse, you may have to cut the skull of the mouse open.
Heterodon Nasicus Nasicus
written by Helen Aldred-Jones
General information
The Western Hognose snake is a colubrid snake from North America (Texas and the like). The taxonomic name can be translated as ‘Variable Teeth and nose’ as the hognose is rear fanged and has an upturned snout for burrowing. They are shy snakes, and often hiss and bluff strike (with a closed mouth, they very rarely bite) if you try to pick them up, but once picked up they become very docile. They have the ability to puff their heads into a cobra shape and if this doesn’t work they may convulse and roll over and loll their tongue in an attempt to play dead. It must be noted that this is quite rare behaviour in captivity and may only be exhibited in some hatchlings. The hognose also has what is know as a duvernoys gland which holds a mild venom, barely as bad as a bee sting if envenomated, although this is rare as it is very difficult for a hognose to bite you as their fangs are set far back in their heads and their heads are quite small. Because of the mildness of the venom, and the difficulty of actually biting you, this snake is considered non-venomous.
Western Hognose snakes are diurnal (active during the day) and their natural food source is toads, rodents, lizards and possibly other snakes, so it is wise not to house western hognose together.
Housing
As these snakes are possibly cannibalistic it is best to house them separately. I house mine in a 24”L X 12”D X 18”H. This should last for the rest of its life. Remember snakes are agoraphobic (scared of open spaces) so if you house a hatchling in a vivarium this size provide lots of hides.
This is how I have arranged my hognose vivarium: note the wax worm tub- I have added moist sphagnum moss and placed it in the warm end of the tank to provide her with a humid hide.
I have used an under tank heat pad which I keep at around 26C, I have also used a 40W bulb to heat up the air temperature (I also strongly recommend the use of a thermostat such as a Habistat one to keep the temperature stable to avoid over or under temperature) and regulate the night and day times for her. (12 hours on, 12 hours off in the summer, 9 hours on 15 hours off in the winter).
The substrate is aspen bedding at a depth of around 2-3 inches so she can hide and burrow in it. Hatchlings should be kept on kitchen roll to avoid impaction.
I have also provided a water bowl at all times so the hognose can have a soak or a drink- it would also be wise to provide a rock or something rough so the snake can rub against when it needs to shed. Note the hides placed in both the cool, warm and middle areas of the vivarium.
Feeding
Western hognose snakes can be fed solely on a diet of rodents. Baby hognose snakes can often eat newborn pinkie mice without trouble, but if not feeding, then split the head of the pinkie and the scent should be enough to encourage it to eat. Hatchlings should be fed every 4- 6 days, with adults fed once a week. The mouse should be no bigger than the diameter of the snake. Defrost the mouse the day before so it is completely thawed. I place the pinkie in a bowl of tepid warm water to aid the thawing. The snake shouldn’t really be handled for 2 days after feeding to prevent regurgitation.
Sexing
Sexing is fairly easy to do if you have a number of snakes to look at. The males have a much longer tail than the females. The tail of the males will be around 25% longer than the females. Probing can also be done, but it is not recommended unless you are experienced or trained to probe snakes.
Breeding
The female should be at least 16 inches long and of a healthy weight before breeding occurs, this is to prevent egg-binding. After the female has shed, she should be ready to breed. The female will secrete pheromones which will arouse the male. The male will start chasing the female and will rub his chin along her back, the copulation will last around 20 minutes, but it can last longer. Watch them carefully as hognose snakes have been known to eat other snakes. Introduce them every couple of days to ensure optimum fertility, this should be done 3 times. Increase the female’s food intake by offering her smaller food items a couple of times a week as she will need to create reserves to produce and lay the eggs. About 6 weeks after copulation, the female should shed- you should introduce a nest box for her to lay her eggs in. This box should have moist sphagnum moss and it should be a dark container. Continue to feed her smaller prey items after she lays for the next couple of feeds.
Incubation
The eggs should be housed in a sandwich box with a layer of damp vermiculite of perlite on the bottom and a dry layer on top. Keep the eggs at a temperature of around 82F and monitor the eggs so you can top up the water if they start to dimple. The eggs should hatch in 6-8 weeks. Once hatched, leave the hatchling in the incubator until it is free of its egg and the umbilical cord has atrophied.
Hatchlings
House each neonate separately- plastic shoe boxes should be ok, with lots of small holes drilled for ventilation (remember they have to be small enough to prevent the snake form escaping). The substrate should be kitchen towel to prevent impaction. Keep records of sheds and feeding to monitor health and the growth progress. Feed the hatchling after a week or so on a defrosted newborn pinkie mouse, you may have to cut the skull of the mouse open.
